Pimples have one amazing feature – they always appear at the wrong time. Therefore, the first thing that interests their “lucky owner” is the way to get rid of this surprise as soon as possible. The dynamic development of the cosmetic industry has given us a variety of special products designed for this purpose. But, oddly enough, despite their abundance, the old grandmother’s way – to cauterize annoying inflammations with alcohol – is still very common. But what can this lead to?
The opinion that alcohol is the best cure for acne has become firmly entrenched in the popular mind and made products containing it especially beloved. However, many experts do not share this passion for cosmetic products “in degrees”. So what is more in alcohol-containing cosmetics for problem skin – harm or benefit? Professionals argue.
Catherine Usanova, director of marketing for ” Akvafarm “
Acne is always the presence of a localized inflammatory process on the skin, and alcohol is a very good antiseptic. Therefore, it used to be very widely used in cosmetics for oily and problem skin. However, it was later found that alcohol, on the contrary, enhances all those negative manifestations of acne, which it is designed to fight. Alcohol, which is known to be a good solvent, destroys the hydrolipidic film that covers our skin with a thin, protective layer. “Stripped” in this way, the skin becomes vulnerable to any infections, becomes inflamed, and, of course, strives to compensate for the lost lipids (fats). Trying to recover as quickly as possible, she, on the contrary, begins to intensively produce sebum. Therefore, an attempt to “dry” oily skin with alcohol-containing cosmetics leads to the opposite result.
In addition, another reaction of the skin to alcohol is increased keratinization , that is, the growth of cells in the surface layer of the skin. As a result, the pores become clogged, which contributes to the appearance of new inflammatory elements. In my opinion, it is not logical to include in the composition of an alcohol-containing cosmetic product some additives that would compensate for the destructive effect of this substance – it is easier not to destroy than to compensate. I think that the use of alcohol is justified only in products that are used locally, for individual pimples. In this case, acne can really be “controlled”.
Svetlana Kovaleva, dermatologist, cosmetologist of the ” Centus ” company
The question of the advisability of using alcohol-containing drugs can be discussed only after setting the framework for the discussion. Are we talking about external dermatological pharmacotherapy or are we talking about cosmetic care?
In the first case, the appropriateness is dictated by the general principles of external treatment of skin diseases – some pharmacological agents are dissolved only in ethyl alcohol, extracts and tinctures are prepared on the basis of alcohol. And, despite the irritating and drying effect of this substance, it has been used and will be used by more than one generation of doctors.
On the contrary, within the framework of a complex cosmetic recipe, the use of alcohol-containing preparations is permissible only with local exposure and the absence of sparing analogues.
Alcohol fell out of favor for its unfavorable effect on the lipid structures of the epidermis, leading to a sharp deterioration in the condition of the skin.
Most often, cosmetologists prescribe alcohol-containing preparations when caring for oily skin with hyperseborrhea or acne, trying in vain to achieve clinical results due to the disinfecting effect. Critical dehydration, violation of the integrity of the skin not only does not contribute to recovery, but sometimes leads to a worsening of the condition (reactionary hyperproduction of sebum, etc.).
It can be justified to use only local alcohol-containing preparations with a high concentration of keratolytic (exfoliating), antibacterial, anti-inflammatory components to accelerate the processes of “maturation” and healing of acne elements. In modern cosmetic research and production laboratories, alcohol tonics for oily skin have sunk into oblivion, instead of them isotonic antibacterial lotions are successfully used.
Lydia Pashuk, MD, PhD, Deputy Director for Science, PKF “Linda” LLC
There is no doubt that the use of pure ethyl alcohol in a high concentration has a negative effect on the condition of the skin with acne . However, alcohol is indispensable in the composition of some cosmetic products, since it not only has excellent antiseptic, degreasing and drying properties,
but also improves the characteristics of such products. For example, in gels and jellies, the introduction of alcohol at a concentration of 5-8% gives the product such irreplaceable qualities as good distribution over the skin, optimal viscosity, and no stickiness.
In lotions, the inclusion of small amounts of alcohol gives a good antiseptic effect and gives them such valuable properties as fast drying and lack of film formation. The alcohol dries up, and the active substance remains on the skin without leaving a trace and a sticky feeling.
Many wet cosmetic wipes designed to cleanse the skin, including with oily problematic skin, contain alcohol at a concentration of 3-8%. This is what makes it possible to quickly and effectively cleanse without feeling sticky and film.
Finally, alcohol is an excellent solvent for some active additives, such as the antimicrobial agent OctopiroxT , which is also effective for acne .
Natalia Korneeva trainer-cosmetologist of the company “United Europe”
In my opinion, there is no need to use alcohol-containing preparations in the care of problematic, oily skin. To date, in this area, cosmetology has made great strides, and there are many ways to combat excess sebum secretion and restore the barrier function of the skin. For this, mineral components, clays, plant extracts can be used. Alcohol can be contained in products in very small doses, and then only as a natural preservative.
Olga Selyanina, dermatologist, head of the Gernetic clinic
Indeed, there is an opinion that in the presence of oily skin, and especially acne, it is necessary to regularly use alcohol-containing cosmetic products. This approach is fundamentally wrong. Frequent use of alcohol-containing products is harmful not only for oily skin, but also for other types of skin.
Firstly, alcohol not only removes the surface layer of sebum, it disrupts the main function of the stratum corneum – protecting the skin from moisture loss and exposure to adverse environmental factors. Dehydrated and unprotected skin becomes more susceptible to microorganisms, to the influence of excessive solar radiation, to low temperatures. And the constant violation of the epidermal barrier can even lead to the development of chronic skin diseases. Thus, we get the same oily skin, but also dehydrated.
Second, the use of alcoholic lotions and toners stimulates the sebaceous glands to produce sebum, making the skin even fatter. At the same time, the composition of sebum changes, which can lead to hyperkeratosis, the appearance of comedones . If, before using alcohol-containing cosmetic products, there was a slight inflammation of the sebaceous duct (mild acne), then their abuse can provoke blockage of the sebaceous ducts and, as a result, lead to an exacerbation of acne.